Soap Box Mold

Diamon Naturals

Alaena Charlotte Diamon

alaena@diamon-naturals.us

 

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Soap Box Mold: Instructions with Pictures

Here are instructions for the soap molds my husband, Ted, makes for me. They are lined with mylar sheets, so do not need to be lined with plastic or freezer paper. They make 48 - 4 oz. bars, but could be made in other sizes, as well. I pour the soap, swirl, and then push the one-piece divider into the soap. They are self-insulating, especially when you stack them on top of each other. I have a ceiling fan on, circulating the air and keeping them from getting TOO hot. I rotate the molds so they all get even exposure. I usually make six batches at a time, and they do go through the gel stage in these molds, whether you want them to or not! I let them set up for at least 24 hours, then unmold the bars and stand them on end to dry out for a couple of days before sculpting. The soap pictured in the mold is Northern Lights, available on my Herbal Soaps, page 1.

Soap Box Mold (Instructions from Ted, lined with mylar)

Sides: Use 3/4" Spruce or Pine (may be used lumber, or check the lumber yard for leftover pieces, which are usually sold at a discount)

Cut 2: 3/4" x 2" x 25-3/4"

Cut 2: 3/4" x 2" x 14-3/4"

Bottom: 1/4" Hardboard

Cut l: 27-1/4" x 14-3/4"

Handles: 3/4" Pine or Spruce (Can purchase drawer handles, if desired)

Cut 2: 3/4" x l" x 4"

Dividers: 1/4" Acrylic

Cut 5: 2" x 25-11/16"

Cut 7: 2" x 13-3/16"

Assemble sides and ends with wood screws, gluing all joints. Put wood glue around edges of bottom and nail bottom to sides and ends, using 1-1/4" finishing nails. It helps to pre-drill the nail holes first. Be sure that box is perfectly square before attaching the bottom. You can see by the pictures, that this mold has been used... but even though a bit of the soap seeps through the corners of the mylar when it is poured, none ever leaks out of the box when it is glued as well as nailed!

Attach handles with wood screws to center of ends. May countersink the screws and fill with wood putty, as I did, for a more finished look.

The hardest part is cutting the dividers. On the long dividers, cut 7 slots 1" deep and just wide enough for the crossing dividers to fit very snugly, a little over 3 inches apart. That creates a 2" x 3" bar of soap, and with approximately a 13# batch of soap, results in 48 bars, each weighing a bit more than 4 oz., allowing for shrinkage to 4 oz. For the crossing dividers, cut 5 slots 1" deep just wide enough so that the longer dividers fit very snugly. After assembling dividers, I would recommend solvent-welding the connections using Methalene Chloride (available from glass and window stores.) It is rather expensive, about $7 for 1/2 oz., but it makes a stable, solid divider. A table saw is mandatory for this operation. Set up a jig on the mitre gauge board similar to a jig used for cutting finger box joints. This way, all cuts will be exact.

The mylar sheets can be obtained from most engineering firms, and I cut out the corners and creased the mylar to fit the inside of the box, beneath the dividers.

This is a picture of the finished box, with the dividers in place.

And here is a picture of the mold, filled with Northern Lights handmade soap, my favorite showering soap!

If you need more information or clarification, please e-mail me, Ted, at:

ted@diamon-naturals.us

 

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